4 x 8c
Climbing season 2000

Igor Koller

No, I do not want to compete with Einstein and find some new formulas. It is also true that 4 x 8c is less important than theory of relativity of our well-known genius. However, last year was in the sign of four climbed routes classified by 8c or 11-, that means break of the barrier of high difficulty level of Slovak sport climbing. Everything is relative, big significance for us, but small for surrounding world, in which are climbed tens of such routes. Ice-climb of classification VI/6+ in the Gramusat Wall remained in shadow of 8c. However, it was an important moment for Slovak mountaineering too. The 8b block in bouldering cannot be compared with nothing similar our climber ever climbed. The year 2000 was first big test of new aims in system of representative teams and their support and a test of evaluating of best climbs of season too.

Crags

Our top team moved to Spain in the winter and we were waiting who will be the first to reach the 8c. Tomas Stejskal, nearly native Spanish, was the one who did it in the Cuos Cous route in El Corro (the route was reclassified to 8b+ lately). It was an award for his endurance and right choice of the objective. Tomas had broken an important psychical barrier and I can imagine Repciks, who had to think: ,,If he did it we must do it too.” And they did it. Marek made the Cous Cous surprisingly fast, the route fit him and there left more time for him to climb the next 8c. It was a Harakiri, which seemed to him even more difficult. Juraj Repčik had troubles for longer time, but finally he climbed Cous Cous too. It was February and we had four 8c’s in the pocket. Until the end of the year, we surprisingly did not add any other. We have not made a hole to the globe by this, 8c was already climbed OS, but doors to 11. level are opened. This confirmed our Visnove routes for 10 and 10+ too. It was all an evident addition for Slovak sport climbing. The Mountainering Commission awarded these ascents with four Silver karabiners. I have to mention also Stejskal’s climb of route Element’s, 8b+, in Spain and Chrastina’s climb of Mike Jordan in Italian Massone in Arco for hard 8b.

The sand is slowly finishing to be an individual category, however it is still little bit specific. Our climbers got on with it very good. Especially Andrej Chrastina dedicated much time to climbing in Labske udoli, where he climbed Sileny tanec, XIa (10) and a new route Uzenie ziletky for 10-. Miro Piala after a short training made 4. climb of Powermetal, 10, in Teplicke skaly. He also made traditionalistic route Strike direkt, E6, 6c, in Wales. He did it flash with the weak protection and that is good nine and very good effort. Similary interesting is our first 8b bloc in bouldering that was realized in late autumn by Tomas Sejskal who climbed the route Le dans des balrogs depart Radja in Swiss Bransone. Maybe we cannot appreciate it enough right now, but it is pushing of limits of our bouldering and challenge for future. In our homeland it was hot mainly in Visnove. We were regularly informing about it in Jamesak magazine. Home rocks are explained in more detail in the article written by Vlado Linek, called Sezona 2000 on Slovak Crags. There are new routes mainly Anakonda, 10+, by Marek Repcik, several routes in classification 10. Very good is a performance of young Peter Topercer, who defeated Panter, 10+. Miro Piala made first repeat of Deus 10/10+. However, the first classification of 11- in Slovakia was made by Tomas Mrazek from Brno, who combined Panter with Anakonda in Visnove in the climbing trance in Los Brnos. It is a clear challenge for our climbers in this year.

At last but not at least, I left our girls. The limits were not broken, but there are several good efforts. Young women climbers made a significant personal progress that is a good sign for future. Such a personal victory is first 7c (9) of Zuzka Cintalova in the route Symphonie Amere in France. Katka Fickuliakova climbed Stanica in the Alternativna stena, 9/9+. Petra Tomanova with two 9 in the Skalka and Zuzka Busfyova who climbed Hrana 1624 in Sulov and Na pamiatku Branovi both routes for nine, joined the party. Dana Somorovska made a flash 7b (8+/9-) in Siurana, Jana Ozima climbed 7b+ (9-) in France, Lenka Micicova climbed Geneza , 9- in Sulov. This is a big progress and such a wide potential gives a real chance for 8a in this year. It will be maybe even higher.

High Tatras

We will start with winter, which we were talking about in details in the article called Broken Ices. As I has already written the most successful was the duo Palo Jackovic and Jozo Skokan. Their first route, officially before the winter, was maybe the best done. They made a first ascent Forsage, VI, A3, at Malý Kezmarsky stit during the 25. and 26., 27. November 1999. Then tehy climbed the Tulak z nizin and Palo was not stopped even by a fall in avalanche. First winter until Nemecky rebrik came in the days of 25., 26. and 27. December 1999, winter classification VI+, A4. Jackovic and Skokan finished their triad with new route Zanzibar, VI, A3, in the Wall of Mynarik during 15th and 16th January 2001. The best conditions and good accesibility was the reason why Maly Kezmarsky stit was climbed most often. I am going to mention just few good achievements, however there were plenty of them. E.g. one day climb of route Rybicka - Smid - Svobodova by Ivan Stefansky and Jozef Kopold on 1. 2. 2000. A nice new route called Via Mala to Usata vezicka was climbed by Jano Svrcek and Martin Hatala on 15. 1. 2000. The question of mixed climbing with ice gear and its classification of M7 was discussed again. Perhaps it does not fit the conditions in Alps. This was confirmed even by climbers. A visit of young French climbers, who were led by skilled Christophe Moulin and Manu Pellissier will be very helpful in this sphere. These two guys are the top climbers of ice and mixed climbing. These two guys climbed free a Russian Roulete on 3. 2. 2000 and the classification is 6/6+! We are still waiting for a Slovak free ascent of this route. The attempt of Jan Svrcek finished with fall mainly because of difficult place protection in the key pitch from climbing position. However, Jan Svrcek did not find out moves more difficult than he made in his routes. Well it has to be climbed and try to hold on the level. When we are talking about the French Hurricane on Malý Kezmarsky stit we have to mention several one-day ascents of the whole face even in the worse conditions. If somebody wants to try real solid enchaiment, he should try to repeat the performance of Moulin and Pellissier. These guys made the route Bocek – Sadek to Nemecky rebrik, they descended Lavy ypsilon and climbed up the whole Weberovka to the top. They did this all in one day! Though it was not the worst winter season, there are still missing best performances, we were use to see before ten years. Long routes climbed from the first attempt in distant valleys in Javorovy stit, Ganek or Zelezna brana.

Summer Tatras again did not surprise us with enormous activity. Technical route called Jetstream is maybe the most interesting climb finished by double of Martin Heuger and Ivan Stefanský for 6+ and hard Yosemite A3+ with many copper heads. For everyone who would like to change it to real American A5; it is only needed not clip any bolt in pitch, but there is a real threat of smashing owner’s head. The route has already two repetitions, first was made by climbers from Brno, Czech Republic and the second was made by Paľo Jackovič with Skokan. Everybody was satisfied. There were some more interesting summer climbs we have to mention. First repetition and first free climb of Forsage on Maly Kezmarsky stit, which was made in OS on 20. 8. 2000 by Jozo Lovas and Palo Packo; classification VII+. They made OS Pochyly’s route on Pusta straz, VII+. Palo Jackovic climbed last summer several good routes solo, e.g. Sikmy zarez, VI-, A3 on Certova veza, new route, V+, A1 (Tatarka’s project) in SW wall of Javorovy stit and route through cave, VI+, A3, on Pysny stit, what was maybe the only repetition of this climb. Palo’s potential in traditional alpinism is great, it is only needed to transform it to routes of bigger importance mainly in alpine terrains. This is still missing, maybe the next year will be the one in which its going to happen. Unfortunately, I have to mention the sad event that happened on Maly Kezmarsky stit too. Brothers Ondrej and Pavel Pochyly, legends of our climbing, died. Their mountain climbing legacy still influences and in the future will still influence our mountaineering.

Extreme ices and winter Alps

This area is one of the spheres, in which the limits of present Slovak mountaineering were conquered in 2000. Classification of ices is difficult thing to do, it depends much on conditions. This fact and two unfinished pitches too caused a little bit not so good appraisement of ascent in the Gramusat face in ice arena near French Argentiere le Bessee. Combination of routes: Gramussat direct with the hardest route Blind Faith that climbed in January 2000 Igor Koller and Peter Matura and Martin Heuger with Ivan Stefansky is the hardest ice ever climbed by our climbers. A result of hard systematic trying lasted for several years. Even the other ascents of Dino Kuran and Fero Piacek, e.g. Clair de Lunulle, IV+/5+ and Direct des Ombres, V/5, Doskocil’s and Matura’s climbs who made Au-Dela des Ombres, V/5, or Heuger’s and Stefanský’s Delikates IV+/5+ are high valued. Similarly as in rock 8c, it is nothing special on the globe, but it shows our possibilities to climb a really hard and significant ascent even in this mountaineering discipline.

We do not have to doubt about our climbing skills in winter Alps. It is hard to expect such raids of our mountaineers again, as in our good old golden days of Czechoslovak mountaineering in 70’s and 80’s. We did not have luck for good conditions in last years. The situation was about the same during the strongly positioned winter meeting in Chamonix in the cooperation with French change program FFME. We could go on harder walls only one week, however there were not good conditions for any serious ascent. It only confirmed us in what we are able to climb – classical extremes that are nothing unusual in Mont Blanc area. I am going to mention just few from our interesting ascents. Jozef Santus a Milan Packo climbed the well-known mixed route Pinocchio, IV/6 on Mont Blanc du Tacul that is our highest achieved mixed level in Alps. Igor Koller and Dusan Myslivec conquered in harsh conditions Madnes tres mince in Pre de Bar wall, III/5, or VI, A0, ice 90 degrees. Heuger and Stefanský climbed in unchristian cold Couzy’s pillar, IV/4 when they were trying to climb Jasper’s route Maria in the northern wall Les Droites near Callas Memorium. Dino Kuran with Slovenian climbers climbed well known route La Jackson, V/5+. It is a pity weather was so bad and conditions even worse, because I do not know, when we will manage to take such a strong team to winter Alps again.

Rock Climbing in Middle Mountains

Activity in this area was not very high and a real bomb of international significance did not happen in past few years. However, we still got great possibilities here. After many years and trips to known Alpine locality of rock-climbing, Rätikon, Miro Piala was one of our most successful climbers in this discipline. He combines in himself potential of serious sport climber with courage and skills from Alpine climbing. The routes in Rätikon do not have typical harsh character; escapes are relativelly simple. The routes are equipped with stable protection, but it is not standard sport climbing, that is for sure. Runouts between anchors are often mentaly difficult to climb, skill of placing own protection is inevitable. However, the main problem is accumulation of big difficulties in many pitches one after another. Hard climbs have only some free repetitions. In addition, I am still not talking about some very psychically hard Scheel’s testpieces, e.g. Hanibal’s Alptraum, 9, which are probably unrepeatable. Miro Piala returned back to Via Acacia route, which was climbed by AF already with Vlado Linek, again in September with reliable climbing mate Peter Machaj. The aim was clear, all the 10 lengths RP on the first end. When we are going to look at those lengths, 7+, 9/9+, 9-,8-, 9, 9/9+, 8, 8, 9+/10-, 4, we can clearly see that it is enough for one day even in the rocks. Miro made it thanks to his ability to fight and that’s the reason why he has, probably just the third climb of this beautiful route, in his ,,showcase”. Alpinism committee awarded this attempt with Silver karabiner.

Individual chapter is Madagascar TREK SPORT expedition in September and October 2000. Vlado Linek again build an expedition to exotic location Tsaranoro. It is a location with internationally respected reputation of hard and very specific rock routes. The expedition was made of Vlado Linek and 5 more climbers: Alexander Buzinkay, Ivan Doskocil, Rado Staruch, Ivan Stefansky and Rasto Simko. Objectives were clear also here: try local extremes and mainly to add one serious new route. Everything was accomplished. First, it was a shorter firstascent Black Magic Women, 8-, 5 lengths, which they absolved in full formation. Then they made it without Simko, which went work to TV Markiza with filmed material. They realized a new route Everything is in the Mind, 8+/9-, 14 lengths, 630 m of climbing and then they made even a free ascent. The route was not the hardest route, which was ever climbed here but it is still a very good share to world rock-climbing scene. Committee had not an easy position with new rules when it was giving awards. Finally, the first ascent climbing style and worse presentation decided that ascent was not awarded. It was a demonstration of the fact that no system can simplify the stuff and that the deciding is never just black and white. There are always ascents somewhere at the edge of award, and factors that are determining are always different for every ascent. It is true that with the same costs and same hard try something more serious in alpine area could be realized. However it is also true that it is much more important ascent than all the 8c routes together when we look at it from another point of view. This point of view shows us that this climb is very important when we count its value and presentation of the Slovak mountaineering on international scene. It is not so simple and it won't be in the future either. But it does not mean that awarding of ascents and performances is not a right thing, because it is one of the possibilities how to support the sport from our association.

Highest Mountains

Nothing extra important happened in this area. The most serious intentions had Martin Heuger and Palo Packo in Peru. However the changing weather conditions, influence of El Niňo and high temperatures prepared for them unpleasant conditions. Very little left from the big plans, just hard picking of another experiences and ascent through Simpson’s ridge to Ranrapalca (6122 m). It happened even less on the much higher mountains. Slovak military expedition had to change the goal because of financial problems. They should do the Broad Peak but they had to change it to Pik Lenina (7134) on Pamir. Jan Matlak and Vladimir Svancar reached the top via classic route in very complicated windy weather.

Five Silver karabiners

The awarding of the best ascents of the season was changed in the year 2000. The system of Gold karabiners and Silver karabiners decreased the amount of awarded performances. I mentioned in previous paragraph who was given the award. The system won't be changed in the year 2001 either. The financial award for every Silver karabiner was 5000 Sk,-.

Here are the awarded performances:

Tomas Stejskal, Cous Cous, 8c, El Chorro, Spain, 19. 1. 2000
Marek Repcik, Cous Cous, 8c, El Chorro, Spain, 13. 2. 2000
Juraj Repcik, Cous Cous, 8c, El Chorro, Spain, February 2000
Marek Repcik, Harakiri, 8c, El Chorro, Spain, 26. 2. 2000
Miro Piala, climbed route Via Acacia, 9+/10-, Rätikon, Switzerland, 14. 9. 2000

Representative Teams for year 2001

After the wide-ranged discussion in Committee of alpinism together with climbers, the system of supporting of representative teams had changed a little. There was a creation of Team A and Team B with different height of financial support. The members of the Team A will get a 50 000,- Sk, the members of Team B will get 20 000,- Sk. Except this, team of juniors will get support of 10 000,- Sk per member for every action organized by alpinism committee.

Team A: Miroslav Piala, Manin Povazska Bystrica and TREK SPORT Team, Juraj Repcik, EXTREM
club Zilina, LANEX Bolatice, Marek Repcik, EXTREM club Zilina, Tomas Stejskal,
Vertikal Patronka Bratislava, Ivan Stefansky, Slavia UK Bratislava, LANEX Bolatice

Team B: Zuzana Cintalova, SKMK Pezinok, Martin Heuger, HK Filozof Bratislava,
TREK SPORT team, Pavol Jackovic, LS Poprad, Andrej Chrastina, Sokol Zilina,
Jozef Skokan, Alpine Club Svit

Junior Team: Katarina Cintalova, SKMK Pezinok, Tomas Rac, Vertikal Patronka Bratislava, Petra
Tomanova, HK Zlate Moravce, Peter Topercer, SEKHO Senica

Climber of the Year

I let this one sweet candy for an end. It had premiere last year. Something similar happened in the past in former Czechoslovakia, but it did not lasted for long. We will see how will our system run. It is build on the relatively wide inquiry of people that have something common with mountaineering, but with clear different criteria and intentions. The inquiry sheets were send to 39 persons, members of VV SHS, members of alpinism committee, chosen mountaineering journalists and to climbers, members of representative teams including wider selection. The committee proposed seven candidates from different areas of climbing. Of course there were all the 4 holders of Silver karabiners Miro Piala, Juraj Repčik, Marek Repčik and Tomas Stejskal, together with Paľo Jackovič, Vlado Linek and Ivan Stefanský. Thirty inquiry sheets were send back, in which the candidates were given the points from 7 to 1. Two sheets were invalid, because voters gave the same amount of points to more candidates. Vote was surprisingly equal, a tendencies to give the vote to the candidate who is doing the similar activities as the voter appeared. Rock climbers voted for rock climbers and alpine climbers voted for alpine climbers. However, the outcome was quite objective. Finally, what I want to say is that the Climber of the year 2000 became Miro Piala thanks to his balanced marks from all voters and surely thanks to his universality. Here are the complete results of inquiry:

1. Miroslav Piala 140 p.
2. Tomas Stejskal 129 p.
3. Marek Repcik 128 p.
4. Ivan Stefansky 123 p.
5. Pavel Jackovic 102 p.
6. Juraj Repcik 79 p.
7. Vladimir Linek 77 p.

List of ascents 2000